There is so much music in this city! cadenzas and crescendos, piano, cello, french horn.. symphonies drift out of windows into ears..
12h15
no money left in the bank. hope I didn't withdraw too much
FOOD is my weakness. hot , delicious, meaty food..
I love to eat. but must start doing it cheaper.
16kn - burek
??h
internet cafe. 3 girls speaking Croatian but also English -- they must go to that American college nearby. Flawlessly switching, English croatian english croatian -
mostly Croatian-
english w/a slight accent.
??h
TODAY IS THURSDAY
I AM IN DUBROVNIK
I WILL TRAVEL TO SPLIT TONIGHT
I WILL SLEEP THERE
WHEN I WAKE UP, IT WILL BE FRIDAY
I WILL STAY IN SPLIT AS LONG AS POSSIBLE, & THEN GO STRAIGHT TO PARIS, AS FAST & CHEAP AS POSSIBLE.
I need a train schedule for split -> zagreb
and split to other if possible? rijeka? ljubljana?
Kn:
I have 20
will need at least 100-150 to sleep tonight
plus some for the bus
plus at least 100 to eat today / tonite
plus 100 for tom.?
400kn=
WEDNESDAY: 26 april 2006
7h30, the next day,
last night - ate ice cream, tried to call nick.. I forget what else. wandered around. Then got tired & went to seep.
Kind of wish I was at a hostel so I could meet people, and also pay a lot less.
When I leave here today I'm supposed to pay for tonight. I'd like to leave here, look for somewhere else to do, and then pay for tonight if I can't find somewhere else.
OH accept it. explore around - find out about excursions and day trips - mountain bike rental, kayak rental?? different boats & buses to different places & islands..
I didn't take (stomach) medicine yesterday -- didn't feel sick.
9h45
In Ljubljana J & M talked about a Croatian island they visited. The most beautiful island they had ever been to! more beautiful than anywhere in Croatia! an no one else goes there - and the people who do only go there for a short time. Those people don't understand why J & M liked it so much & stayed so long - there's nothing to do!
Oh, by the way, it is infested with huge tarantulas! Also, it is hot & dry & sandy and hardly anything grows. It is like a desert! And oh, so beautiful.
That kind of sums up the two of them for me. They see a different kind of beauty.
observations
Cat hunched over small bloody fish on staircase
Complimentary apple
fingers dyed ripe-strawberry-red
oh my god, I am in Croatia
ancient city walls
unspeakably ancient sun
a new kind of fresh bread, a familiar cheese, a bottle of tap water
and ant superhighway along wire along old wall
A lizard! way down there, from way up here! another, now!
francophones
musicians climbing an enticing staircase, through a heavy door
a green heinekin bottle floating vertically in the clear water, over a bed of smooth pale stones & deep green seaweed - almost picturesque.
I stopped and stared.
The label floats, sinks, tumbles, floats in the gentle waves several meters away. Somehow not quite as picturesque.
SEA KAYAKS
places only accessible in small boats
secluded beaches
sitting ..... living .....
??h
On the wall of a staircase climbing up above a small harbor - younger kid below me rolling a joint, 4 older ones smoking one above me
People also smoking on the ferry. Twice I saw it.
Interesting, ..... vaguely.
I ate mussel risotto for dinner! wow, it was awful. half-way through I thought about mussels, on rocks, in the ocean and all.. they kind of lost their appeal. All they taste like is the ocean and that turned me off for some reaeson. (though I am presently considering oysters - raw) maybe it is because they were hot, and chewy, I don't know, but I just couldn't eat any more mussels. I are most of the risotto, which was really just rice, and also not cooked all the way. oh well. it was huge, cheap.
I hate the color of the lights they use to illuminate the city at night. it's so harsh and ugly.
There are 2 churces in the old town with clocks that strike the hour. one is 5 minutes behind the other. why?
The clock on the orthodox church strikes for noon. In a square nearby, at an outdoor cafe, next to a fresh produce market, next to a statue of someone Important. Suddenly, reflexively, 200 pigeons take flight, circling panickedly over the square. The wind picks up. A little brown-haired girl in a dress shrieks and runs towards the pigeons as they take off. A woman screams.
Things settle a bit, the woman rushes to safety, the girl dances about in delight, everyone looks up.
A man throws a basketful of grain on the ground amongst the pigeons there. Another man, a tourist, takes photographs.
I sit as the cafe with an espresso and full stomach, studying a Croatian phrasebook.
my accent shifts like high-speed clouds.......
17h
SEA KAYAKING <3 <3 <3
made the risky decision to see what it's like to take out a sea kayak alone in an unfamiliar place with effectively no experience in this type of endeavor.
left Dubrovnik around 15h, now it's 2 hours later and I am sitting on top of a white rock, full of cracks, holes (small ones, like bubbles), and premium places to get easily cut without even noticing.
The sun is shining through the haze
I feel good , like this is what I came on vacation for.
I am a little big cold but this is so fantastico. or , as I can say in probably very poor Croatian, "ja volim!" ("I LIKE!")
19h45
fantastically exhausted
figure out what to do next! where did I write down the bus sched. to Split?
21h30
put on dry clothes. bought phone card. called nick. made list of things to do.
last night - ate ice cream, tried to call nick.. I forget what else. wandered around. Then got tired & went to seep.
Kind of wish I was at a hostel so I could meet people, and also pay a lot less.
When I leave here today I'm supposed to pay for tonight. I'd like to leave here, look for somewhere else to do, and then pay for tonight if I can't find somewhere else.
OH accept it. explore around - find out about excursions and day trips - mountain bike rental, kayak rental?? different boats & buses to different places & islands..
I didn't take (stomach) medicine yesterday -- didn't feel sick.
9h45
In Ljubljana J & M talked about a Croatian island they visited. The most beautiful island they had ever been to! more beautiful than anywhere in Croatia! an no one else goes there - and the people who do only go there for a short time. Those people don't understand why J & M liked it so much & stayed so long - there's nothing to do!
Oh, by the way, it is infested with huge tarantulas! Also, it is hot & dry & sandy and hardly anything grows. It is like a desert! And oh, so beautiful.
That kind of sums up the two of them for me. They see a different kind of beauty.
observations
Cat hunched over small bloody fish on staircase
Complimentary apple
fingers dyed ripe-strawberry-red
oh my god, I am in Croatia
ancient city walls
unspeakably ancient sun
a new kind of fresh bread, a familiar cheese, a bottle of tap water
and ant superhighway along wire along old wall
A lizard! way down there, from way up here! another, now!
francophones
musicians climbing an enticing staircase, through a heavy door
a green heinekin bottle floating vertically in the clear water, over a bed of smooth pale stones & deep green seaweed - almost picturesque.
I stopped and stared.
The label floats, sinks, tumbles, floats in the gentle waves several meters away. Somehow not quite as picturesque.
SEA KAYAKS
places only accessible in small boats
secluded beaches
sitting ..... living .....
??h
On the wall of a staircase climbing up above a small harbor - younger kid below me rolling a joint, 4 older ones smoking one above me
People also smoking on the ferry. Twice I saw it.
Interesting, ..... vaguely.
I ate mussel risotto for dinner! wow, it was awful. half-way through I thought about mussels, on rocks, in the ocean and all.. they kind of lost their appeal. All they taste like is the ocean and that turned me off for some reaeson. (though I am presently considering oysters - raw) maybe it is because they were hot, and chewy, I don't know, but I just couldn't eat any more mussels. I are most of the risotto, which was really just rice, and also not cooked all the way. oh well. it was huge, cheap.
I hate the color of the lights they use to illuminate the city at night. it's so harsh and ugly.
There are 2 churces in the old town with clocks that strike the hour. one is 5 minutes behind the other. why?
The clock on the orthodox church strikes for noon. In a square nearby, at an outdoor cafe, next to a fresh produce market, next to a statue of someone Important. Suddenly, reflexively, 200 pigeons take flight, circling panickedly over the square. The wind picks up. A little brown-haired girl in a dress shrieks and runs towards the pigeons as they take off. A woman screams.
Things settle a bit, the woman rushes to safety, the girl dances about in delight, everyone looks up.
A man throws a basketful of grain on the ground amongst the pigeons there. Another man, a tourist, takes photographs.
I sit as the cafe with an espresso and full stomach, studying a Croatian phrasebook.
my accent shifts like high-speed clouds.......
17h
SEA KAYAKING <3 <3 <3
made the risky decision to see what it's like to take out a sea kayak alone in an unfamiliar place with effectively no experience in this type of endeavor.
left Dubrovnik around 15h, now it's 2 hours later and I am sitting on top of a white rock, full of cracks, holes (small ones, like bubbles), and premium places to get easily cut without even noticing.
The sun is shining through the haze
I feel good , like this is what I came on vacation for.
I am a little big cold but this is so fantastico. or , as I can say in probably very poor Croatian, "ja volim!" ("I LIKE!")
19h45
fantastically exhausted
figure out what to do next! where did I write down the bus sched. to Split?
21h30
put on dry clothes. bought phone card. called nick. made list of things to do.
TUESDAY: 25 april 2006
08h21
mmm.. much needed sleep. another kid infomed me, as I woke up from a catnap on the deck, that there's a room on the ship (inside) where a lot of people were hanging out and sleeping, and that he and some others were heading there. it's a 24 hour bar, actually, but wit ha section et aside from people to sit / eat in, with tables and all. I installed myself on the floor and fell asleep around 11 (23h)
woke up to see the sun rising over the mountains and islands. fucking uber gorgeous - but the went back to sleep. think I'll get out of this room (now full of people chatting and drinking voffee) and check out the weather and the scene on the deck.
8h50: I cannot believe where I am.
(kind of wish I 'd been able to make it to Split and check out the scene there)
I can see Stari Grad (Hvar island) coming up!
9h24: moving away from Hvar now. I can smell breakfast cooking and I am super jealous. I think I'm right outside the kitchen of the restaurant here. I might move. ....
13h15 Korčula is gorgeous. A little old town squeezed into a little bay / valley, surrounded with green hills / mountains. now I can count 8 small islands ahead, and there's a big one on either side of the ship. one is Korčula, I'd have to look at the map to i.d. the other... it's just south. one of the islands has one building on it, in the enter, stone I think. I wonder what it is. I've seen a couple of ismilar setups. awesome.
15h45 - croatia friend - Veky - probably won't ever see him again but he was very nice. wants to be a ship's captain. has cute freckles.
16h08 ok- saw him magain - he came out on his way back to his cabin to say he hopes I enjoy my stay in Croatia. What a nice guy. and I'm not just saying that because he was super cute.
he has been smiling at me ever since yesterday. he should have said something to me sooner. I never know if I can talk to others or not - if they know english. Anyway, I always feel a little weird when people smile at me like that.
17h40 was met at the harbor (port) in Dubrov. by several women holding up signs, advertising rooms to rent. I shouldn't have a problem finding a place to stay, I'd like to call the YHA hostel, since I know where it is, kind of - it's in the guidebook.
I left the ship (boat, ferry, what's the best word to use? though, yeah, I guess it's certainly a ship.. though for cars, so also a ferry, I guess). Anyway, I left with Veky (he has another name but I can't remember it - nor can I say it - it has a funny sound in it, plus a really fancy rolling R that he deos in a delightful way but that I probably shouldn't even try. I love languages but can be so self-conscious about vocalizing things) -- oh, right, we we went to a cafe/bar (where I am now) and had some coffee. then he went for dinner, and I guess I am waiting around here (harbor) until he's done with dinner (which is on the ship) and we'll go into town together, I'll drop my crap off somewhere (hopefully @ a hostel or other place to sleep) and then we'll hang out.
He is with his school, and leaving at 11 (23h) and is with a bunch of Croatian classmates (they're all boys)
17h55 - he asked earlier if the books that I was reading was a sci-fi book - I asked why he thought that, and he said because I was traveling and everything, and doing it alone, too!
he is interested in america - seems to have the whole Horatio Alger thing in mind. Says that in Croatia, most people can't afford vacations across the ocean like maericans do so often, and that's it's not so easy to get gainful employment, etc.
I like to meet other people, hear what they think, get an idea of their perspective on things..
19h40: he helped me get a room somewhere and then took off. weird. or maybe that's just how people are in Hrvatska.
Just had the weirdest déjà vu while getting ready to go out after a shower.. like I've done this all before, but maybe in a dream..
??h
I think it's Tuesday. Maybe the 25th of April, or at least somewhere around there. The year of our lord 2006.
Dubrovnik, Croatia. Counting my losses. I'm going outside. I should eat dinner, and have a drink.
21h10
This city is full of cats. Some have bells, some are skinny, some are kittens, some friendly, some scared, some are black, others are orangey.
I am doing what I said I didn't want! city-to-city! Today alone I was in 3 cities -- no that's not true, I forgot, I took an overnight ferry. Last night I slept on the floor of a lounge on a ship. The night before, on 2 different trains. Tonight I have 2 beds, in a room in Dubrovnik. Unnecessary, yes. A little more expensive than I had hoped (twice as expensive, as it were), but a million times easier, and also conveniently located. For someone who wants to be in the city, that is. A not-very-happening city, too, as far as nightlife & non traditional tourism seem to go.
fire on the mountain:
the image of the wanderer.
I CHING
23h
Time to explore new city. feel full ... sick...
I love it
notes / logistics
Croatian
HR'vatska (Hrvatska) - Croatia
HW'ala (hvala) - thanks
MO'leem (molim) - book says "please" , veky says you say it for "you're welcome"
PI'vo (pivo) - beer
KA'va (kava) - coffee
Kruškovac - some liquor that Veky says girls like
VI'no (vino) - wine
VOda - water
money:
Dubrovnik
wine - 14 kuna
water - 14kn
Rijeka
pizza, 2 slices - ? kn (greasy, ew)
bread - 10kn (not like in france, but kept well, and was good)
Burek - 15kn (whatever it was, I liked it)
phone card - 50kn (hi nick)
useless stamps - (oh well)
McDs - ~30kn (ew!)
notebook/lighter - 9kn (ill)
pivo/chips - 21kn (ok)
cheez/sunblock - 20kn (excellent choice on the cheese)
ferry - 195kn (wee!)
Dubrovnik
dinner (lasagna, bruscetta, wine) - 120kn (pretty good, even!)
room - 150 kn (sure)
mmm.. much needed sleep. another kid infomed me, as I woke up from a catnap on the deck, that there's a room on the ship (inside) where a lot of people were hanging out and sleeping, and that he and some others were heading there. it's a 24 hour bar, actually, but wit ha section et aside from people to sit / eat in, with tables and all. I installed myself on the floor and fell asleep around 11 (23h)
woke up to see the sun rising over the mountains and islands. fucking uber gorgeous - but the went back to sleep. think I'll get out of this room (now full of people chatting and drinking voffee) and check out the weather and the scene on the deck.
8h50: I cannot believe where I am.
(kind of wish I 'd been able to make it to Split and check out the scene there)
I can see Stari Grad (Hvar island) coming up!
9h24: moving away from Hvar now. I can smell breakfast cooking and I am super jealous. I think I'm right outside the kitchen of the restaurant here. I might move. ....
13h15 Korčula is gorgeous. A little old town squeezed into a little bay / valley, surrounded with green hills / mountains. now I can count 8 small islands ahead, and there's a big one on either side of the ship. one is Korčula, I'd have to look at the map to i.d. the other... it's just south. one of the islands has one building on it, in the enter, stone I think. I wonder what it is. I've seen a couple of ismilar setups. awesome.
15h45 - croatia friend - Veky - probably won't ever see him again but he was very nice. wants to be a ship's captain. has cute freckles.
16h08 ok- saw him magain - he came out on his way back to his cabin to say he hopes I enjoy my stay in Croatia. What a nice guy. and I'm not just saying that because he was super cute.
he has been smiling at me ever since yesterday. he should have said something to me sooner. I never know if I can talk to others or not - if they know english. Anyway, I always feel a little weird when people smile at me like that.
17h40 was met at the harbor (port) in Dubrov. by several women holding up signs, advertising rooms to rent. I shouldn't have a problem finding a place to stay, I'd like to call the YHA hostel, since I know where it is, kind of - it's in the guidebook.
I left the ship (boat, ferry, what's the best word to use? though, yeah, I guess it's certainly a ship.. though for cars, so also a ferry, I guess). Anyway, I left with Veky (he has another name but I can't remember it - nor can I say it - it has a funny sound in it, plus a really fancy rolling R that he deos in a delightful way but that I probably shouldn't even try. I love languages but can be so self-conscious about vocalizing things) -- oh, right, we we went to a cafe/bar (where I am now) and had some coffee. then he went for dinner, and I guess I am waiting around here (harbor) until he's done with dinner (which is on the ship) and we'll go into town together, I'll drop my crap off somewhere (hopefully @ a hostel or other place to sleep) and then we'll hang out.
He is with his school, and leaving at 11 (23h) and is with a bunch of Croatian classmates (they're all boys)
17h55 - he asked earlier if the books that I was reading was a sci-fi book - I asked why he thought that, and he said because I was traveling and everything, and doing it alone, too!
he is interested in america - seems to have the whole Horatio Alger thing in mind. Says that in Croatia, most people can't afford vacations across the ocean like maericans do so often, and that's it's not so easy to get gainful employment, etc.
I like to meet other people, hear what they think, get an idea of their perspective on things..
19h40: he helped me get a room somewhere and then took off. weird. or maybe that's just how people are in Hrvatska.
Just had the weirdest déjà vu while getting ready to go out after a shower.. like I've done this all before, but maybe in a dream..
??h
I think it's Tuesday. Maybe the 25th of April, or at least somewhere around there. The year of our lord 2006.
Dubrovnik, Croatia. Counting my losses. I'm going outside. I should eat dinner, and have a drink.
21h10
This city is full of cats. Some have bells, some are skinny, some are kittens, some friendly, some scared, some are black, others are orangey.
I am doing what I said I didn't want! city-to-city! Today alone I was in 3 cities -- no that's not true, I forgot, I took an overnight ferry. Last night I slept on the floor of a lounge on a ship. The night before, on 2 different trains. Tonight I have 2 beds, in a room in Dubrovnik. Unnecessary, yes. A little more expensive than I had hoped (twice as expensive, as it were), but a million times easier, and also conveniently located. For someone who wants to be in the city, that is. A not-very-happening city, too, as far as nightlife & non traditional tourism seem to go.
fire on the mountain:
the image of the wanderer.
I CHING
23h
Time to explore new city. feel full ... sick...
I love it
notes / logistics
Croatian
HR'vatska (Hrvatska) - Croatia
HW'ala (hvala) - thanks
MO'leem (molim) - book says "please" , veky says you say it for "you're welcome"
PI'vo (pivo) - beer
KA'va (kava) - coffee
Kruškovac - some liquor that Veky says girls like
VI'no (vino) - wine
VOda - water
money:
Dubrovnik
wine - 14 kuna
water - 14kn
Rijeka
pizza, 2 slices - ? kn (greasy, ew)
bread - 10kn (not like in france, but kept well, and was good)
Burek - 15kn (whatever it was, I liked it)
phone card - 50kn (hi nick)
useless stamps - (oh well)
McDs - ~30kn (ew!)
notebook/lighter - 9kn (ill)
pivo/chips - 21kn (ok)
cheez/sunblock - 20kn (excellent choice on the cheese)
ferry - 195kn (wee!)
Dubrovnik
dinner (lasagna, bruscetta, wine) - 120kn (pretty good, even!)
room - 150 kn (sure)
MONDAY 24 april 06
00h00
just remembered a dream... jill was talking to me about her basquiat tattoo - explaining that it used to be expressive of her, that's what it was supposed to be - but it got so regulated and changed that it wasn't her anymore, it didn't really signify anything.
01h25 .... I miss him. I wonder what it will be like when we see eachother again. oh wow I want to sleep next to him. I am suddenly compelled to email him: "I miss you, darling, love, dana"
should probably hang back at least until I figure out what I want.. what to do...
2h40: in an 80 degree F train car, luckily the one where the ticket-checkers are hanging out with all the lights on. o shit, I forgot to spend the rest of my slovenian money -- don't even have any water to drink.
well, they turned off the lights, but it is still 200 degrees and smells like feet. I guess I will get used to it, and contribute to the smell. good-bye, boots.
so-Ljubljana. checked into super nice hoste, then wandered - through the old town, way up a hill to their castle, through a place called Metalikova - used to be army barracks, then a squat, now a legal public place covered in graffiti and swarming with punk rock kids, european-style, with dreadlocks and mohawks, speaking their crazy language. then falafel, hostel, out with Matina, Jason, Kostas, Therese -- we just wandered around, I got drunk first. we didn't try to go to any bars until 1h, which happens to be when the bars in our area close. I ate a hot dog and went to sleep.
Today (yesterday) I woke up, hung around thining about what to do next... ended up packing, leaving bag @ hostel, and going out with the same kids from the hoste. We went for coffee/breakfast where we met up with several others: jernej (Slovenia), Marine (French), 2 austrain boys, several others. Anyway, talked etc. Then went to Rog with Therese, Jernej, Marine. fascinating. J&M are crazy, interesting people who run a graphic design company. currently working on creating designs for & selling chocolates.
Then met up w/others (greeks, austrians).. walked thru Tivoli park to a restaurant (a surprise, to me) and had an incredible feast. It was Serbian food. Fresh cheese, bread, baked beans, red peppers, pork chops, sausages, smoked pork, pork kabobs, burger-like ground flavored (seasoned) beef, other sausages, beer... it was indescribably intense and delicious - esp. because I had just eated nanother falafel. In the end it cost the equivalent of just over 13 euro. indescribable. mmm. just fantastic grilled meat. Then hung out in the park - Jason played guitar, we sang and banged on things, smoked a couple of those awful european joints that are mostly tobacco, relaxed... then ran some errands (I was told no reservation needed for train). Then we went to Marine and J's house, met their friend Chaz / jazz / whatever, hung out, drank wine, drew pictures.... now I'm on the 2h53 train to Zagreb, where I will spend 2 hours trying not to fall asleep and miss my train to split.
4h27 - passport / ticket check. croatia!
6h40 - arrived in Zagreb. one more hour (or so) until train to Split. got currence - 800 kn (kuna) something over $100 - but I'm not sure of the exchange rate. wander, breakfast, train, sleep.
6h55 - couldn't figure out how to reserve a seat on the train to Split. first gave up and then, 2 minutes before it left, I turned and got on a train to Rijeka. hmmm., I wonder what that's like? I think it's on the water. I hope so. I hope I can find a place to stay and all...! also, somewhere to go after.
I think the ferry to Dubrovnik leaves from there actually.
damn, these mountains are beautiful.
7h just realized how close to Ljubljana Rijeka is. damn. what a ridiculous journey I am making today!! oh well.. 3 hours to go til I'm somewhere new, who cares abut the circuit-ness of my route.
9h355 I am not on a bus - I just saw a sign , 38km to Rijeka. I wonder why I am on this bus. everyone on the train switched to it. The train guy said I should too.
what a confusing and exhausting morning!
11h: so... Rijeka! fascinating so far, though I havevn't seen anything that looks liek a hostel or hotel or room for rent. o well, it's a beautiful say and it's stil learly. (sucks: lockers in train station broken.)
13h07: bought a ticket for the ferry to Dubrovnik. 195kn - about 26 euro. Boarding is tonight at 18h, we leave at 20h, arrive in Dubrovnik around 16h I think (on Tuesday) Rijeka seems cool and really beautiful, but this is my only chance to get the boat down along the coast. 20 hours on a boat!! This will be a new experience. I hope I'm not too cold. I bet I will be -- no blanket or anything. But J in Ljub said it was a lot of fun up on the deck where I'll be - just a bunch of kids ( and others.)
Everyone is much too attractive and well-dressed anyway.
Must find post office.
16h10 - should eat some fruit or something so I don't get scurvy.
If the traveler cannot find
Master or friend to go with him
Let him travel on alone...
-Dhammapada
20h04: Rijeka: ferry: we're moving! the sunset is great. it's 19 C here, whatever that means. well, only 20 more hours on the boat...
20h57: watched the sun set in Rijeka on the way out. previous sunrise in Zagreb. Previous sunset in Ljubljana. I have been moving around a lot, seeing different times and places. I wonder if I'll be up tomorrow to see the s'rise? I'm sitting on the ground, on the deck of the Marko Polo, outside... it's a nice night.
notes / logistics
Rijeka: before boarding ferry:
procure stamps, phone card, food for 6am monday - 4pm tuesday
get more food: bring dinner (pizza?) on the ferry
1. look at map of city
2. walk towards something cool
3. get more food
4. etc
FERRY: RIJEKA --> DUBROVNIK
via Split, Stari Grad (Hvar), Korčula, (on to Bari)
MONDAY: 24 APRIL
18h - boarding: Rijeka
20h - blast off
TUESDAY: 25 APRIL
6h30 - arrive split
7h - leave split
8h40 - stop @ Stari Grad
9h - depart
12h40 - arrive Korčula
13h - move along
16h15 - ARRIVE DUBROVNIK
- find place to stay
-call nick
-etc
CROATIAN
sounds
c = ts
ć = tch
č = ch
đ = dy
dž = just
š = sh
ž = pleasure
hello - Zdravo
bye - doviđenja
yes / no - da / ne
please - molim (also - you're welcome; no problem ?)
thanks - Hvala
scuse me - Oprostite
sorry - pardon
english - Engleski
how much? - koliko košta
boat - brod
intercity bus - autobus međvgradski
city bus - autobusgradski
train - vlac
ticket - kartu
left - Lijevo
Right - desno
Bank - banku
embassy - ambasadu
post office - poštu
phone - telefonsku
guesthouse - privatno prenoćište
hostel - omladinso prenoćište
room - sobe
today - danas
tomorrow - sutre
yesterday - jučer
a.m. - ujutro
p.m. - popodne
enter - ulaz
exit - izlaz
open - otvoreno
closed - zatvoreno
interdit - zabranjeno
toilettes - zahodi
1 - 10: jedan, dva, tre, četiri, pet, šest, sedam, osam, devet, deset.
100: sto
m-sun: ponedeljak, utorak, srijeda, četvertak, petak, subota, nedjelja
DUBROVNIK: where to sleep
1. hostel
2. room (private)
3. hotel
hostels:
Dubronik youth service
Setaliste Kralja Zvonimira 10, Dubrovnik
+385 (0) 98652870
20€/nite?
they say to make reservations and then they pick you up - no directions given. in old town.
HI Dubrovnik
(20) 423241
10€
Bana Jelačića 15-17 (or maybe Vinka Sagrestana 3)
YHA
423241
"up vinka sagrestina from
Bana Josipa Jelačića 17
SE of bus stop, nw of old town
esperanza
just remembered a dream... jill was talking to me about her basquiat tattoo - explaining that it used to be expressive of her, that's what it was supposed to be - but it got so regulated and changed that it wasn't her anymore, it didn't really signify anything.
01h25 .... I miss him. I wonder what it will be like when we see eachother again. oh wow I want to sleep next to him. I am suddenly compelled to email him: "I miss you, darling, love, dana"
should probably hang back at least until I figure out what I want.. what to do...
2h40: in an 80 degree F train car, luckily the one where the ticket-checkers are hanging out with all the lights on. o shit, I forgot to spend the rest of my slovenian money -- don't even have any water to drink.
well, they turned off the lights, but it is still 200 degrees and smells like feet. I guess I will get used to it, and contribute to the smell. good-bye, boots.
so-Ljubljana. checked into super nice hoste, then wandered - through the old town, way up a hill to their castle, through a place called Metalikova - used to be army barracks, then a squat, now a legal public place covered in graffiti and swarming with punk rock kids, european-style, with dreadlocks and mohawks, speaking their crazy language. then falafel, hostel, out with Matina, Jason, Kostas, Therese -- we just wandered around, I got drunk first. we didn't try to go to any bars until 1h, which happens to be when the bars in our area close. I ate a hot dog and went to sleep.
Today (yesterday) I woke up, hung around thining about what to do next... ended up packing, leaving bag @ hostel, and going out with the same kids from the hoste. We went for coffee/breakfast where we met up with several others: jernej (Slovenia), Marine (French), 2 austrain boys, several others. Anyway, talked etc. Then went to Rog with Therese, Jernej, Marine. fascinating. J&M are crazy, interesting people who run a graphic design company. currently working on creating designs for & selling chocolates.
Then met up w/others (greeks, austrians).. walked thru Tivoli park to a restaurant (a surprise, to me) and had an incredible feast. It was Serbian food. Fresh cheese, bread, baked beans, red peppers, pork chops, sausages, smoked pork, pork kabobs, burger-like ground flavored (seasoned) beef, other sausages, beer... it was indescribably intense and delicious - esp. because I had just eated nanother falafel. In the end it cost the equivalent of just over 13 euro. indescribable. mmm. just fantastic grilled meat. Then hung out in the park - Jason played guitar, we sang and banged on things, smoked a couple of those awful european joints that are mostly tobacco, relaxed... then ran some errands (I was told no reservation needed for train). Then we went to Marine and J's house, met their friend Chaz / jazz / whatever, hung out, drank wine, drew pictures.... now I'm on the 2h53 train to Zagreb, where I will spend 2 hours trying not to fall asleep and miss my train to split.
4h27 - passport / ticket check. croatia!
6h40 - arrived in Zagreb. one more hour (or so) until train to Split. got currence - 800 kn (kuna) something over $100 - but I'm not sure of the exchange rate. wander, breakfast, train, sleep.
6h55 - couldn't figure out how to reserve a seat on the train to Split. first gave up and then, 2 minutes before it left, I turned and got on a train to Rijeka. hmmm., I wonder what that's like? I think it's on the water. I hope so. I hope I can find a place to stay and all...! also, somewhere to go after.
I think the ferry to Dubrovnik leaves from there actually.
damn, these mountains are beautiful.
7h just realized how close to Ljubljana Rijeka is. damn. what a ridiculous journey I am making today!! oh well.. 3 hours to go til I'm somewhere new, who cares abut the circuit-ness of my route.
9h355 I am not on a bus - I just saw a sign , 38km to Rijeka. I wonder why I am on this bus. everyone on the train switched to it. The train guy said I should too.
what a confusing and exhausting morning!
11h: so... Rijeka! fascinating so far, though I havevn't seen anything that looks liek a hostel or hotel or room for rent. o well, it's a beautiful say and it's stil learly. (sucks: lockers in train station broken.)
13h07: bought a ticket for the ferry to Dubrovnik. 195kn - about 26 euro. Boarding is tonight at 18h, we leave at 20h, arrive in Dubrovnik around 16h I think (on Tuesday) Rijeka seems cool and really beautiful, but this is my only chance to get the boat down along the coast. 20 hours on a boat!! This will be a new experience. I hope I'm not too cold. I bet I will be -- no blanket or anything. But J in Ljub said it was a lot of fun up on the deck where I'll be - just a bunch of kids ( and others.)
Everyone is much too attractive and well-dressed anyway.
Must find post office.
16h10 - should eat some fruit or something so I don't get scurvy.
If the traveler cannot find
Master or friend to go with him
Let him travel on alone...
-Dhammapada
20h04: Rijeka: ferry: we're moving! the sunset is great. it's 19 C here, whatever that means. well, only 20 more hours on the boat...
20h57: watched the sun set in Rijeka on the way out. previous sunrise in Zagreb. Previous sunset in Ljubljana. I have been moving around a lot, seeing different times and places. I wonder if I'll be up tomorrow to see the s'rise? I'm sitting on the ground, on the deck of the Marko Polo, outside... it's a nice night.
notes / logistics
Rijeka: before boarding ferry:
procure stamps, phone card, food for 6am monday - 4pm tuesday
get more food: bring dinner (pizza?) on the ferry
1. look at map of city
2. walk towards something cool
3. get more food
4. etc
FERRY: RIJEKA --> DUBROVNIK
via Split, Stari Grad (Hvar), Korčula, (on to Bari)
MONDAY: 24 APRIL
18h - boarding: Rijeka
20h - blast off
TUESDAY: 25 APRIL
6h30 - arrive split
7h - leave split
8h40 - stop @ Stari Grad
9h - depart
12h40 - arrive Korčula
13h - move along
16h15 - ARRIVE DUBROVNIK
- find place to stay
-call nick
-etc
CROATIAN
sounds
c = ts
ć = tch
č = ch
đ = dy
dž = just
š = sh
ž = pleasure
hello - Zdravo
bye - doviđenja
yes / no - da / ne
please - molim (also - you're welcome; no problem ?)
thanks - Hvala
scuse me - Oprostite
sorry - pardon
english - Engleski
how much? - koliko košta
boat - brod
intercity bus - autobus međvgradski
city bus - autobusgradski
train - vlac
ticket - kartu
left - Lijevo
Right - desno
Bank - banku
embassy - ambasadu
post office - poštu
phone - telefonsku
guesthouse - privatno prenoćište
hostel - omladinso prenoćište
room - sobe
today - danas
tomorrow - sutre
yesterday - jučer
a.m. - ujutro
p.m. - popodne
enter - ulaz
exit - izlaz
open - otvoreno
closed - zatvoreno
interdit - zabranjeno
toilettes - zahodi
1 - 10: jedan, dva, tre, četiri, pet, šest, sedam, osam, devet, deset.
100: sto
m-sun: ponedeljak, utorak, srijeda, četvertak, petak, subota, nedjelja
DUBROVNIK: where to sleep
1. hostel
2. room (private)
3. hotel
hostels:
Dubronik youth service
Setaliste Kralja Zvonimira 10, Dubrovnik
+385 (0) 98652870
20€/nite?
they say to make reservations and then they pick you up - no directions given. in old town.
HI Dubrovnik
(20) 423241
10€
Bana Jelačića 15-17 (or maybe Vinka Sagrestana 3)
YHA
423241
"up vinka sagrestina from
Bana Josipa Jelačića 17
SE of bus stop, nw of old town
esperanza
SUNDAY: 23 april 2006
LJUBLJANA
1h25: hope I don't sleep late tomorrow. maybe I'll turn on my phone, plug it in, and set the alarm.
spilled soda in my purse and all over my stuff, lost a couple of things.
all in all, though, I've had worse nights. I think I may leave this town tomorrow, though...
10h35: hostel in Ljub - watching anime (in english, Slovenian s'titles) on the tv... feel like I'm in some crazy world / life. ....
16h05 Tivoli Park - Ljubljana - just went to an ill squat / artist commune - ROG I think. don't know if I'll leave Slovenia on the 02h35 train of the 08h35 train - I have to make a reservation before 10pm (20h) (don't forget!) I am having a nice time w/Greeks, French, Austrian, Australian, Slovenians. can't think well, don't know why
notes / logistics
BAHN.DE
(Koper) -> LJUB (20H) -> ZAGREB (22H27) -- 2,700 SIT
ZAGREB (23H) -> SPLIT (4H30) -- 4,180 SIT
= 6,880 SIT (~25€)
AP-LJUBLJANASI.com?
-------------------------
SUNDAY
17h45: Ljub ---> 20h03: Zagreb Gl. Kol.
22h57: Zagreb --> 6h54: Split
***make sure this train actually exists
2h35: Ljub --> 4h56: Zagreb Gl. (sleeper/couchette)
6h50: Zagreb --> 12h12: Split (r)
MOND
8h35: Lj --> 10h52: Za
11h05 Za --> 16h33: Sp (*short)
3181 SIT - feast (13.25€)
SPLIT
Al's Place *PRINT OUT MAP/DIR!
Kruziceva 10, Split region (?)
00385 98 9182923 (in croatia: 098 918923)
13-15€
11-noon; 17-20h
www.hostelsplit.com
split --> dub JADROLINIJA
Tues 06h30 - 16h15 // sat 6h30 - 13h
1h25: hope I don't sleep late tomorrow. maybe I'll turn on my phone, plug it in, and set the alarm.
spilled soda in my purse and all over my stuff, lost a couple of things.
all in all, though, I've had worse nights. I think I may leave this town tomorrow, though...
10h35: hostel in Ljub - watching anime (in english, Slovenian s'titles) on the tv... feel like I'm in some crazy world / life. ....
16h05 Tivoli Park - Ljubljana - just went to an ill squat / artist commune - ROG I think. don't know if I'll leave Slovenia on the 02h35 train of the 08h35 train - I have to make a reservation before 10pm (20h) (don't forget!) I am having a nice time w/Greeks, French, Austrian, Australian, Slovenians. can't think well, don't know why
notes / logistics
BAHN.DE
(Koper) -> LJUB (20H) -> ZAGREB (22H27) -- 2,700 SIT
ZAGREB (23H) -> SPLIT (4H30) -- 4,180 SIT
= 6,880 SIT (~25€)
AP-LJUBLJANASI.com?
-------------------------
SUNDAY
17h45: Ljub ---> 20h03: Zagreb Gl. Kol.
22h57: Zagreb --> 6h54: Split
***make sure this train actually exists
2h35: Ljub --> 4h56: Zagreb Gl. (sleeper/couchette)
MOND
8h35: Lj --> 10h52: Za
11h05 Za --> 16h33: Sp (*short)
3181 SIT - feast (13.25€)
SPLIT
Al's Place *PRINT OUT MAP/DIR!
Kruziceva 10, Split region (?)
00385 98 9182923 (in croatia: 098 918923)
13-15€
11-noon; 17-20h
www.hostelsplit.com
split --> dub JADROLINIJA
Tues 06h30 - 16h15 // sat 6h30 - 13h
SATURDAY: 22 april 2006
Venice/Ljubljana
5h41: whoops, fell asleep (for a 'nap') last night around 7, just woke up now because 2 of the girls in my room are packing up and leaving.
so, uh, yeah, train to ljubljana at 9h: I should to a little planning. Also, call Nick, and send postcards before leaving italy.
6h25 sunrise in Venice, from the Orto vaporetto stop. At first it was a brilliant/dull orange disk; now I can't look at it without squinting. soon it will be something else - no longer orange, no longer so low in the sky (it rises at I sit and watch)
DON'T GET DISTRACTED AND MISS THE TRAIN!
I don't really want to spend another day here.
6h45: moving along. as soon as the boat moves and I can scramble off this dock I really shouldn't be sitting on.. hope I don't fall as they pull away...
ok. safe.
8h50 on a train that's headed for Budapest, stopping in Monfalcone, Villa Opicina, Sezana, Ljubljana. hopefully I'm doing this right -- no ticket / restervation, just my rail pass.. not by any means a full train. mostly empty, actually.
9h20 - fork sticking out ot stump next to train track. should i have made a reservation? (of course) everyone has assigned seats but me - keep needing to move / change compartments... sorry everyone.
11h06 : Villa Opicina, border stop between Italy and Slovenia. we've stopped, I wonder what does on, how long we'll be here? I've been asleep. Sometimes I look outside and it's beautiful. mountainy, hilly, green, rough...
11h25: andiamo! (btw, they checked my p'port, but no stamp or nothin, still)
11h37 - passport check inside Slovenia. wee! a stamp!
12h: tiny villages - stone & stucco, red roofs.. stone walls.. small gardening plots, white, purple, yellow flowers..
-had to pay an 8.50 euro reservation fee (fine?) - geuss I should'a done that in Venezia, but then I probably wouldn't have made in onto this train in the first place.
oh my god I am surrounded by mountains. not sharp, icy, green, but smoother, sandier... covered in trees, most still bare...
many tunnels!
15h: Ljub! Fluxus Hostel. 21 euro. What would the world of budget accomodation look like if it weren't for Ikea?
15h50: start learning an eastern european language. master it. in the meantime, learn to say "photographer" (or "I am a ___") in as many languages as possible.
16h40: I think things look prettier if you see them from somewhere you're not supposed to go.
18h45: woah. this language is wild. I'm at a falafel place, looked at the menu to see what the different choices were & realized the only word I recognized was "falafel."
trying to remember what I've bought since arrival.. found a receipt for 540 SIT, but don't know what that wouldn't been...
balance: 6810 SIT, 25 euro
no, it all adds up, provided that I actually spent 540 on something.
oh. that was my ice cream. 180 for each scoop - I had 3.
23h: going out soon with some greek kids from the hostel - Jason, Matina, and another guy - I forget his nombre. (added later - Kostas). They are passionate, fascinating people. (also - Therese - australian girl)
I even talked to faisal online. how werid, kind of. he's gread. not going back to saudi arabia next week. probably no going anywhere at all, though he said he was again thinking of going to croatia.
you know, he's the reason I cam out here in the first place .. !
notes / logistics
PLAN: go to fluxus hostel. see what's up. ask where to go next if it's full.
hitchhiking - legal
purchases - 22/4
.90€ - chocolate croissant - venice (mmm)
3€ - pizza - venice (pretty bad)
1.10€ - water, 2 postcards
4€ - 5 stamps
8.50€ - train to Ljubljana
20€ - night at hostel
2€ - doner kebab
490 SIT - tower in castle
1030 SIT - falafel, soda, other thing
540 SIT - ice cream
Slovene
sounds
c = ts
č = ch
ê = a(pple)
e = a(go)
é = day
j = y
ó = more
ò = soft
š = sh
u = good
ž = treasure
l/v = w, before vowels, end of syllables
hello - pozdravljeni (polite)
zdravo (informal) - also in croatian
good day - dober dan
bye - nasvidenje
yes - da / ja (inf)
no - ne
thanks - hvala
your welcome - prosim
excuse me - oprostite
room - sabo
poceni - cheap
eno noč - one night
vhod - entrance
izhod - exit
odprto - open
zaprto - closed
prepovadano - prohibited
stranišče - toilets
danes - today / nocoj - tonight / jutri - tomorrow
sobota, nedelja, ponedeljek (saturday, sunday, monday)
1 - 10: ena, dve, tri, štiri, pet, šest, sedem, osem, devet, deset
štruklji - chz dumplings
zelenjavna - veggies
gobova - mushrooms
juha - soup
paprikaš - beef or chicken stew
njoki, rižota - gnocchi, risotto
dunajski zrezek - wienerschnitzel
klobasa - sausage
currency:
SIT - EURO
50 - .21
100 - .42
300 - 1.25
400 - 1.67
500 - 2.10
1000 - 4.20
22/4: withdrew 9000 SIT
(hope that's not too much)
5h41: whoops, fell asleep (for a 'nap') last night around 7, just woke up now because 2 of the girls in my room are packing up and leaving.
so, uh, yeah, train to ljubljana at 9h: I should to a little planning. Also, call Nick, and send postcards before leaving italy.
6h25 sunrise in Venice, from the Orto vaporetto stop. At first it was a brilliant/dull orange disk; now I can't look at it without squinting. soon it will be something else - no longer orange, no longer so low in the sky (it rises at I sit and watch)
DON'T GET DISTRACTED AND MISS THE TRAIN!
I don't really want to spend another day here.
6h45: moving along. as soon as the boat moves and I can scramble off this dock I really shouldn't be sitting on.. hope I don't fall as they pull away...
ok. safe.
8h50 on a train that's headed for Budapest, stopping in Monfalcone, Villa Opicina, Sezana, Ljubljana. hopefully I'm doing this right -- no ticket / restervation, just my rail pass.. not by any means a full train. mostly empty, actually.
9h20 - fork sticking out ot stump next to train track. should i have made a reservation? (of course) everyone has assigned seats but me - keep needing to move / change compartments... sorry everyone.
11h06 : Villa Opicina, border stop between Italy and Slovenia. we've stopped, I wonder what does on, how long we'll be here? I've been asleep. Sometimes I look outside and it's beautiful. mountainy, hilly, green, rough...
11h25: andiamo! (btw, they checked my p'port, but no stamp or nothin, still)
11h37 - passport check inside Slovenia. wee! a stamp!
12h: tiny villages - stone & stucco, red roofs.. stone walls.. small gardening plots, white, purple, yellow flowers..
-had to pay an 8.50 euro reservation fee (fine?) - geuss I should'a done that in Venezia, but then I probably wouldn't have made in onto this train in the first place.
oh my god I am surrounded by mountains. not sharp, icy, green, but smoother, sandier... covered in trees, most still bare...
many tunnels!
15h: Ljub! Fluxus Hostel. 21 euro. What would the world of budget accomodation look like if it weren't for Ikea?
15h50: start learning an eastern european language. master it. in the meantime, learn to say "photographer" (or "I am a ___") in as many languages as possible.
16h40: I think things look prettier if you see them from somewhere you're not supposed to go.
18h45: woah. this language is wild. I'm at a falafel place, looked at the menu to see what the different choices were & realized the only word I recognized was "falafel."
trying to remember what I've bought since arrival.. found a receipt for 540 SIT, but don't know what that wouldn't been...
balance: 6810 SIT, 25 euro
no, it all adds up, provided that I actually spent 540 on something.
oh. that was my ice cream. 180 for each scoop - I had 3.
23h: going out soon with some greek kids from the hostel - Jason, Matina, and another guy - I forget his nombre. (added later - Kostas). They are passionate, fascinating people. (also - Therese - australian girl)
I even talked to faisal online. how werid, kind of. he's gread. not going back to saudi arabia next week. probably no going anywhere at all, though he said he was again thinking of going to croatia.
you know, he's the reason I cam out here in the first place .. !
notes / logistics
PLAN: go to fluxus hostel. see what's up. ask where to go next if it's full.
hitchhiking - legal
purchases - 22/4
.90€ - chocolate croissant - venice (mmm)
3€ - pizza - venice (pretty bad)
1.10€ - water, 2 postcards
4€ - 5 stamps
8.50€ - train to Ljubljana
20€ - night at hostel
2€ - doner kebab
490 SIT - tower in castle
1030 SIT - falafel, soda, other thing
540 SIT - ice cream
Slovene
sounds
c = ts
č = ch
ê = a(pple)
e = a(go)
é = day
j = y
ó = more
ò = soft
š = sh
u = good
ž = treasure
l/v = w, before vowels, end of syllables
hello - pozdravljeni (polite)
zdravo (informal) - also in croatian
good day - dober dan
bye - nasvidenje
yes - da / ja (inf)
no - ne
thanks - hvala
your welcome - prosim
excuse me - oprostite
room - sabo
poceni - cheap
eno noč - one night
vhod - entrance
izhod - exit
odprto - open
zaprto - closed
prepovadano - prohibited
stranišče - toilets
danes - today / nocoj - tonight / jutri - tomorrow
sobota, nedelja, ponedeljek (saturday, sunday, monday)
1 - 10: ena, dve, tri, štiri, pet, šest, sedem, osem, devet, deset
štruklji - chz dumplings
zelenjavna - veggies
gobova - mushrooms
juha - soup
paprikaš - beef or chicken stew
njoki, rižota - gnocchi, risotto
dunajski zrezek - wienerschnitzel
klobasa - sausage
currency:
SIT - EURO
50 - .21
100 - .42
300 - 1.25
400 - 1.67
500 - 2.10
1000 - 4.20
22/4: withdrew 9000 SIT
(hope that's not too much)
FRIDAY: 21 april 2006
VENICE
8h25
wandered around the city last night with John, in from Abu Dhabi for the night a nice guy, not entirely unpleasant, super kind (to me) and also totally jacked to I felt safe walking around the dark alley with him. Got back the hostel around 3h.... going to try to nap in the sun for a while.
"existence is sorrow"
10h: on the vaporetto going from venice to Burano, the island with the name I forget, and then maybe Murano too, we'll see. I want to sit and relax for a while... didn't get enough sleep. I feel ok now but I'll for sure be real tired later.
11h30 found a sweet little corner on the water in Burano. mmm.. rest time (also, tanning!)
13h55 rested but didn't nap heading over to Murano now, to see some more tourists
19h15 still no nap. I'll probably be up til I got to sleep for the nite, then. that should be ok. I wonder what I should to tonite. I didn't make it out to that jazz club last nite - kind of wish I'd headed over there. I walked by @ dinnertime though and it was all set up like a restaurant, not a club or performance space. maybe I'll cruise by tonight, or maybe meet some people? we'll see. drinkign some wine, returning to venice from murano... my feet hurt.
ps. did I mention I've had some super bad food? .... oh well. also some great pizza through. ps. I maybe got a little sunburned today? The weather is fabulous.
"existence is illusion" -dhammapada
17h40 yes, I am kind of sunburned, but, ah! le soleil
did I mention that it feels really weird to speak only in english? I want to say ca va, bueno, no sé, c'est pas grave, etc. feel like I can't really say what I want in this language. quand j'entends le francais, mon coeur saut: c'est quelquechose familiare dans un endroit inconnu... anglais, à l'autre côté, me dérange sans cesse.
notes / logistics:
things I forgot / should have brought:
bathing suit
towel
where does the earliest train on saturday go?
artists - Tobia Rava, Steven Marshall.
author - Dubravka Ugresic
purchases - 21/4:
2€ - water, bread, pizza things - Burano (good)
1€ - pizzette - Venice (AWESOME)
5€ - pizza topped w/hot dog slices, fries - Burano (pretty bad)
1.25€ - box of wine - Murano - (not bad)
2.50€ - aroncini, focaccia, candy - murano - (BAD)
5€ - maté and flavored tea sugar
on LOGDING in LJUBLJANA
Fluxus Hostel
(I don't have phone number)
"voted one of top 10.."
discount prices 'til 27/4?
check in @ 3
5-10 minute walk from train/bus:
R from station to SLOVENSKA CESTA
L towards/past Zara, Nama, Benetton stores
R - after that: first house, right, on TOMSICEVA VLICA
#4, 2nd floor (~$26/nite)
or bus No9 to Trnovo, get off @ 3rd stop, Konzorcij, hostel is "10 steps away"
5000 SIT = 21€
Alibi K5 Hostel
(Old town, overlooking river)
from train: head S towards downtown on Miklo_ieeva street .. etc - see sheet
added later - greeks and 2 finnish girls stayed here one night then left for Fluxus, where we met .. had a bad experience @ Alibi
8h25
wandered around the city last night with John, in from Abu Dhabi for the night a nice guy, not entirely unpleasant, super kind (to me) and also totally jacked to I felt safe walking around the dark alley with him. Got back the hostel around 3h.... going to try to nap in the sun for a while.
"existence is sorrow"
10h: on the vaporetto going from venice to Burano, the island with the name I forget, and then maybe Murano too, we'll see. I want to sit and relax for a while... didn't get enough sleep. I feel ok now but I'll for sure be real tired later.
11h30 found a sweet little corner on the water in Burano. mmm.. rest time (also, tanning!)
13h55 rested but didn't nap heading over to Murano now, to see some more tourists
19h15 still no nap. I'll probably be up til I got to sleep for the nite, then. that should be ok. I wonder what I should to tonite. I didn't make it out to that jazz club last nite - kind of wish I'd headed over there. I walked by @ dinnertime though and it was all set up like a restaurant, not a club or performance space. maybe I'll cruise by tonight, or maybe meet some people? we'll see. drinkign some wine, returning to venice from murano... my feet hurt.
ps. did I mention I've had some super bad food? .... oh well. also some great pizza through. ps. I maybe got a little sunburned today? The weather is fabulous.
"existence is illusion" -dhammapada
17h40 yes, I am kind of sunburned, but, ah! le soleil
did I mention that it feels really weird to speak only in english? I want to say ca va, bueno, no sé, c'est pas grave, etc. feel like I can't really say what I want in this language. quand j'entends le francais, mon coeur saut: c'est quelquechose familiare dans un endroit inconnu... anglais, à l'autre côté, me dérange sans cesse.
notes / logistics:
things I forgot / should have brought:
bathing suit
towel
artists - Tobia Rava, Steven Marshall.
author - Dubravka Ugresic
purchases - 21/4:
2€ - water, bread, pizza things - Burano (good)
1€ - pizzette - Venice (AWESOME)
5€ - pizza topped w/hot dog slices, fries - Burano (pretty bad)
1.25€ - box of wine - Murano - (not bad)
2.50€ - aroncini, focaccia, candy - murano - (BAD)
5€ - maté and flavored tea sugar
on LOGDING in LJUBLJANA
Fluxus Hostel
(I don't have phone number)
"voted one of top 10.."
discount prices 'til 27/4?
check in @ 3
5-10 minute walk from train/bus:
R from station to SLOVENSKA CESTA
L towards/past Zara, Nama, Benetton stores
R - after that: first house, right, on TOMSICEVA VLICA
#4, 2nd floor (~$26/nite)
or bus No9 to Trnovo, get off @ 3rd stop, Konzorcij, hostel is "10 steps away"
5000 SIT = 21€
Alibi K5 Hostel
(Old town, overlooking river)
from train: head S towards downtown on Miklo_ieeva street .. etc - see sheet
added later - greeks and 2 finnish girls stayed here one night then left for Fluxus, where we met .. had a bad experience @ Alibi
THURSDAY: 20 april 2006
06h15: VENICE
breakfast on the train. the night wasn't to bad. it cooled down. she snored like crazy but o well. a little espresso and some sort of pastry. 1 hours to venice . I will try and learn some Italitan real quick.
9h30 - Venice is filthy, run down, full of tourists, and fucking gorgeous. warm, sunny, fresh air (ok, it smells sometimes, but ..) <3 <3 <3
called nick but no answer. dropped off pack at hostel.
9h50 - Acoustic jazz - 'gypsykings' or something at Paradiso Perdudo neare the hostel tonight. awesome. it opens at 7 (19h) but I imagin they'll go on later?
What is being awake if not interpreting our dreams
or dreaming if not interpreting our wake? -JSF p36
10h17: I almost feel like my life is too fucked up to enjoy this. I am so sorry.
12h53: fist coca cola black since gare de lyon in paris... was that yesterday? (yes) riding the vaporetto no. 1 along the canal,south-ish to the Adacemia stop no, past there, to Salute. Will walk west, then cross the pont accademia, then head north-ish.
14h33: constantly walking down little streets that end suddenly at the water's edge. have seen some picturesquely dismal places too, fascinating. I love taking photos.
16h40: just sat in a puddle of something really, really awful-smelling. oh no. otherwise enjoying venice, but wondering what I'll to tomorrow? I kind of with I hadn't booked the 2nd night (tomorrow) @ this hostel, like I told myself to do originally. maybe a day trip somewhere.
19h: sitting in one of the courtyards at the hostel (there are several!) there's no direct sunlight in any of them, but the weather is still warm & beautiful. birds are signing, I can hear a harmonica somewhere, occasionally children yell and laugh. lizards scramble around, with neat little red & black bus. spoke to nick about an hour ago.
now church bells are ringing. I can hear people singing. how amazing.
there are currently 2 other people set up in my room - an older Italian woman, and someone I haven't met yet. there is a chill looking girl about my age that I saw (she's sitting where I wanted to be!)
Love me, because love doesn't exist, and I have tried everything that does. JSF p82
21h20 - at some dumb touristy restaurant. I got a carafe of merlot - it's chilled , and sparking... weird. also, no tap water, only bottled. What's up with that? I'll just get drunk, thank you.
logistics and notes:
VENICE-
Ostello Santa Fosca (19 euro/night)
Cannaregio 2372 Santa Maria dei Servi
0039 041 715775
lockout 9h30-12h
reception 8h-12h, 17h-20h
oggi - today
domani - tomorrow
lunedi, martedi, mercoledi, giovedi, venerdi, sabato, domenica
stazione - train station
biglietto - ticket
TO DO upon arrival in Venice:
find hostel. drop off bags / check in
find phone card. call nick.
find internet? email mom, dad, jill, margo
eat italian food
buy 'rolling venice' card
TO DO also:
figure out next leg of trip
buy stamps
visit murano and other islands
visit lido
money spent: (in euro)
4 - rolling venice card (good)
15 - vaporetto pass (good)
34 - hostel, 2 nights (good)
5 - pizza, water (excellent)
1 - bread (stale, bad)
2 - gelato (good)
1.85 - bad wine (bad)
1 - popcorn (standard)
21 - dinner (pretty bad)
breakfast on the train. the night wasn't to bad. it cooled down. she snored like crazy but o well. a little espresso and some sort of pastry. 1 hours to venice . I will try and learn some Italitan real quick.
9h30 - Venice is filthy, run down, full of tourists, and fucking gorgeous. warm, sunny, fresh air (ok, it smells sometimes, but ..) <3 <3 <3
called nick but no answer. dropped off pack at hostel.
9h50 - Acoustic jazz - 'gypsykings' or something at Paradiso Perdudo neare the hostel tonight. awesome. it opens at 7 (19h) but I imagin they'll go on later?
What is being awake if not interpreting our dreams
or dreaming if not interpreting our wake? -JSF p36
10h17: I almost feel like my life is too fucked up to enjoy this. I am so sorry.
12h53: fist coca cola black since gare de lyon in paris... was that yesterday? (yes) riding the vaporetto no. 1 along the canal,
14h33: constantly walking down little streets that end suddenly at the water's edge. have seen some picturesquely dismal places too, fascinating. I love taking photos.
16h40: just sat in a puddle of something really, really awful-smelling. oh no. otherwise enjoying venice, but wondering what I'll to tomorrow? I kind of with I hadn't booked the 2nd night (tomorrow) @ this hostel, like I told myself to do originally. maybe a day trip somewhere.
19h: sitting in one of the courtyards at the hostel (there are several!) there's no direct sunlight in any of them, but the weather is still warm & beautiful. birds are signing, I can hear a harmonica somewhere, occasionally children yell and laugh. lizards scramble around, with neat little red & black bus. spoke to nick about an hour ago.
now church bells are ringing. I can hear people singing. how amazing.
there are currently 2 other people set up in my room - an older Italian woman, and someone I haven't met yet. there is a chill looking girl about my age that I saw (she's sitting where I wanted to be!)
Love me, because love doesn't exist, and I have tried everything that does. JSF p82
21h20 - at some dumb touristy restaurant. I got a carafe of merlot - it's chilled , and sparking... weird. also, no tap water, only bottled. What's up with that? I'll just get drunk, thank you.
logistics and notes:
VENICE-
Ostello Santa Fosca (19 euro/night)
Cannaregio 2372 Santa Maria dei Servi
0039 041 715775
lockout 9h30-12h
reception 8h-12h, 17h-20h
oggi - today
domani - tomorrow
lunedi, martedi, mercoledi, giovedi, venerdi, sabato, domenica
stazione - train station
biglietto - ticket
TO DO upon arrival in Venice:
find hostel. drop off bags / check in
find phone card. call nick.
find internet? email mom, dad, jill, margo
eat italian food
buy 'rolling venice' card
TO DO also:
figure out next leg of trip
buy stamps
visit murano and other islands
visit lido
money spent: (in euro)
4 - rolling venice card (good)
15 - vaporetto pass (good)
34 - hostel, 2 nights (good)
5 - pizza, water (excellent)
1 - bread (stale, bad)
2 - gelato (good)
1.85 - bad wine (bad)
1 - popcorn (standard)
21 - dinner (pretty bad)
WEDNESDAY 19 april 2006
BUON VIAGGIO.
Paris
14h45: finally going. bought a ticket: Paris, Lausanne, Venezia. leaves at 18h05, arrives in venice 7h30 the next day. the man at the ticket booth was incredible friendly and helpful. had to pay 50 euro bc I'm taking an overnite train (in a bed!!) expensive but exciting. dropped my wallet a minute ago and didn't notice. someone picked it up and gave it back to me. things aren't as horrible as I sometimesfear think.
16h20 - to do: call venice hostel. cancel for tonite. don't add another night. worry about that upon arrival.
look @ train schedules from venice
relax. eat french fries. buy bread. buy water. ps. the promenade plantée does right by the gare de lyon. i'm there now. it's beautiful. all the flowers are blooming. parts of it are like walking through a tunnel of green old french ladies walk along gossiping couples, tourists, families, teenagers. etc. beautiful. everyone is freinds. "ah, vous prenez des photos!" "la route.... elle est longue..." (?) crazy old femmes.
WE PRAY BY NOT PRAYING.
WE FULFULL THE LAW BY TRANSGRESSING IT.
-JS FOER EVERYTHING IS ILLUMINATED
19h15 - somewher ein the french countryside. some of these towns are so beautiful I want to cry. I have never been anywhere like this before. so quiet, comfortable, rustic, filled with character... and it's so green!
20h20 beautiful sunset. rolling hills.
but the sun: neon red-pink, half hidden in haze, not at all painful to look at , except in its beauty
20h40: we're higher up now. looking down on tiny villages., lights beginning to flicker on, steeply pitched deep red roofs... pink glow in the sky to my right..
(now: a tunnel!)
are these mountains? Alps??!?
how beautiful...
21h: in Switzerland. brushing faisal hair off my affairs... (21 Apr - in venice - doing the same)
22h: about to pull into Lausanne (for20 80 min) - I wonder what language things will be in? what will it look like any good photo ops? safe?
23h35: on a train on my way to venice in a miniscule compartment with a squat old woman who grunts when shoe moves. the compartment is hot and she got the iwndow seat. I should start drinking, but I don't know wher the bathroom is... I am so excited through!! in the mañana I will be in venice! Italy! wee!
I just hope she doesn't die in the night. old Italian woman, she says there's no toilet, and if I have to "faire pipi" in the night, that she has a little container to use, and then to dump it in our little sink here. hmm. I imagine there must be bathrooms out on the train somewhere...
logistics and notes:
phone numbers that I brought:
calling card #
Ariela, Faisal, Simon (to get in touch w. F), my cell, Roopali, our aparment, Paul
rough plan:
leave paris wednesday april 19. be back in paris monday, may 1 in time for class.
eurail use summary, week 1:
19 april
Paris-Lausanne: 18h04-21h58 (5 euro)
Lausanne-Venezia: 23h20-07h36 (45 euro)
22 april
Venezia-Ljubljana: 09h-13h14 (8.50 euro)
24 april
Ljubljana-Zagreb: 02h35-04h56
Zagreb-Rijeka: 06h50-10h21
Paris
14h45: finally going. bought a ticket: Paris, Lausanne, Venezia. leaves at 18h05, arrives in venice 7h30 the next day. the man at the ticket booth was incredible friendly and helpful. had to pay 50 euro bc I'm taking an overnite train (in a bed!!) expensive but exciting. dropped my wallet a minute ago and didn't notice. someone picked it up and gave it back to me. things aren't as horrible as I sometimes
16h20 - to do: call venice hostel. cancel for tonite. don't add another night. worry about that upon arrival.
look @ train schedules from venice
relax. eat french fries. buy bread. buy water. ps. the promenade plantée does right by the gare de lyon. i'm there now. it's beautiful. all the flowers are blooming. parts of it are like walking through a tunnel of green old french ladies walk along gossiping couples, tourists, families, teenagers. etc. beautiful. everyone is freinds. "ah, vous prenez des photos!" "la route.... elle est longue..." (?) crazy old femmes.
WE PRAY BY NOT PRAYING.
WE FULFULL THE LAW BY TRANSGRESSING IT.
-JS FOER EVERYTHING IS ILLUMINATED
19h15 - somewher ein the french countryside. some of these towns are so beautiful I want to cry. I have never been anywhere like this before. so quiet, comfortable, rustic, filled with character... and it's so green!
20h20 beautiful sunset. rolling hills.
but the sun: neon red-pink, half hidden in haze, not at all painful to look at , except in its beauty
20h40: we're higher up now. looking down on tiny villages., lights beginning to flicker on, steeply pitched deep red roofs... pink glow in the sky to my right..
(now: a tunnel!)
are these mountains? Alps??!?
how beautiful...
21h: in Switzerland. brushing faisal hair off my affairs... (21 Apr - in venice - doing the same)
22h: about to pull into Lausanne (for
23h35: on a train on my way to venice in a miniscule compartment with a squat old woman who grunts when shoe moves. the compartment is hot and she got the iwndow seat. I should start drinking, but I don't know wher the bathroom is... I am so excited through!! in the mañana I will be in venice! Italy! wee!
I just hope she doesn't die in the night. old Italian woman, she says there's no toilet, and if I have to "faire pipi" in the night, that she has a little container to use, and then to dump it in our little sink here. hmm. I imagine there must be bathrooms out on the train somewhere...
logistics and notes:
phone numbers that I brought:
calling card #
Ariela, Faisal, Simon (to get in touch w. F), my cell, Roopali, our aparment, Paul
rough plan:
leave paris wednesday april 19. be back in paris monday, may 1 in time for class.
eurail use summary, week 1:
19 april
Paris-Lausanne: 18h04-21h58 (5 euro)
Lausanne-Venezia: 23h20-07h36 (45 euro)
22 april
Venezia-Ljubljana: 09h-13h14 (8.50 euro)
24 april
Ljubljana-Zagreb: 02h35-04h56
Zagreb-Rijeka: 06h50-10h21
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