00h00
just remembered a dream... jill was talking to me about her basquiat tattoo - explaining that it used to be expressive of her, that's what it was supposed to be - but it got so regulated and changed that it wasn't her anymore, it didn't really signify anything.
01h25 .... I miss him. I wonder what it will be like when we see eachother again. oh wow I want to sleep next to him. I am suddenly compelled to email him: "I miss you, darling, love, dana"
should probably hang back at least until I figure out what I want.. what to do...
2h40: in an 80 degree F train car, luckily the one where the ticket-checkers are hanging out with all the lights on. o shit, I forgot to spend the rest of my slovenian money -- don't even have any water to drink.
well, they turned off the lights, but it is still 200 degrees and smells like feet. I guess I will get used to it, and contribute to the smell. good-bye, boots.
so-Ljubljana. checked into super nice hoste, then wandered - through the old town, way up a hill to their castle, through a place called Metalikova - used to be army barracks, then a squat, now a legal public place covered in graffiti and swarming with punk rock kids, european-style, with dreadlocks and mohawks, speaking their crazy language. then falafel, hostel, out with Matina, Jason, Kostas, Therese -- we just wandered around, I got drunk first. we didn't try to go to any bars until 1h, which happens to be when the bars in our area close. I ate a hot dog and went to sleep.
Today (yesterday) I woke up, hung around thining about what to do next... ended up packing, leaving bag @ hostel, and going out with the same kids from the hoste. We went for coffee/breakfast where we met up with several others: jernej (Slovenia), Marine (French), 2 austrain boys, several others. Anyway, talked etc. Then went to Rog with Therese, Jernej, Marine. fascinating. J&M are crazy, interesting people who run a graphic design company. currently working on creating designs for & selling chocolates.
Then met up w/others (greeks, austrians).. walked thru Tivoli park to a restaurant (a surprise, to me) and had an incredible feast. It was Serbian food. Fresh cheese, bread, baked beans, red peppers, pork chops, sausages, smoked pork, pork kabobs, burger-like ground flavored (seasoned) beef, other sausages, beer... it was indescribably intense and delicious - esp. because I had just eated nanother falafel. In the end it cost the equivalent of just over 13 euro. indescribable. mmm. just fantastic grilled meat. Then hung out in the park - Jason played guitar, we sang and banged on things, smoked a couple of those awful european joints that are mostly tobacco, relaxed... then ran some errands (I was told no reservation needed for train). Then we went to Marine and J's house, met their friend Chaz / jazz / whatever, hung out, drank wine, drew pictures.... now I'm on the 2h53 train to Zagreb, where I will spend 2 hours trying not to fall asleep and miss my train to split.
4h27 - passport / ticket check. croatia!
6h40 - arrived in Zagreb. one more hour (or so) until train to Split. got currence - 800 kn (kuna) something over $100 - but I'm not sure of the exchange rate. wander, breakfast, train, sleep.
6h55 - couldn't figure out how to reserve a seat on the train to Split. first gave up and then, 2 minutes before it left, I turned and got on a train to Rijeka. hmmm., I wonder what that's like? I think it's on the water. I hope so. I hope I can find a place to stay and all...! also, somewhere to go after.
I think the ferry to Dubrovnik leaves from there actually.
damn, these mountains are beautiful.
7h just realized how close to Ljubljana Rijeka is. damn. what a ridiculous journey I am making today!! oh well.. 3 hours to go til I'm somewhere new, who cares abut the circuit-ness of my route.
9h355 I am not on a bus - I just saw a sign , 38km to Rijeka. I wonder why I am on this bus. everyone on the train switched to it. The train guy said I should too.
what a confusing and exhausting morning!
11h: so... Rijeka! fascinating so far, though I havevn't seen anything that looks liek a hostel or hotel or room for rent. o well, it's a beautiful say and it's stil learly. (sucks: lockers in train station broken.)
13h07: bought a ticket for the ferry to Dubrovnik. 195kn - about 26 euro. Boarding is tonight at 18h, we leave at 20h, arrive in Dubrovnik around 16h I think (on Tuesday) Rijeka seems cool and really beautiful, but this is my only chance to get the boat down along the coast. 20 hours on a boat!! This will be a new experience. I hope I'm not too cold. I bet I will be -- no blanket or anything. But J in Ljub said it was a lot of fun up on the deck where I'll be - just a bunch of kids ( and others.)
Everyone is much too attractive and well-dressed anyway.
Must find post office.
16h10 - should eat some fruit or something so I don't get scurvy.
If the traveler cannot find
Master or friend to go with him
Let him travel on alone...
-Dhammapada
20h04: Rijeka: ferry: we're moving! the sunset is great. it's 19 C here, whatever that means. well, only 20 more hours on the boat...
20h57: watched the sun set in Rijeka on the way out. previous sunrise in Zagreb. Previous sunset in Ljubljana. I have been moving around a lot, seeing different times and places. I wonder if I'll be up tomorrow to see the s'rise? I'm sitting on the ground, on the deck of the Marko Polo, outside... it's a nice night.
notes / logistics
Rijeka: before boarding ferry:
procure stamps, phone card, food for 6am monday - 4pm tuesday
get more food: bring dinner (pizza?) on the ferry
1. look at map of city
2. walk towards something cool
3. get more food
4. etc
FERRY: RIJEKA --> DUBROVNIK
via Split, Stari Grad (Hvar), Korčula, (on to Bari)
MONDAY: 24 APRIL
18h - boarding: Rijeka
20h - blast off
TUESDAY: 25 APRIL
6h30 - arrive split
7h - leave split
8h40 - stop @ Stari Grad
9h - depart
12h40 - arrive Korčula
13h - move along
16h15 - ARRIVE DUBROVNIK
- find place to stay
-call nick
-etc
CROATIAN
sounds
c = ts
ć = tch
č = ch
đ = dy
dž = just
š = sh
ž = pleasure
hello - Zdravo
bye - doviđenja
yes / no - da / ne
please - molim (also - you're welcome; no problem ?)
thanks - Hvala
scuse me - Oprostite
sorry - pardon
english - Engleski
how much? - koliko košta
boat - brod
intercity bus - autobus međvgradski
city bus - autobusgradski
train - vlac
ticket - kartu
left - Lijevo
Right - desno
Bank - banku
embassy - ambasadu
post office - poštu
phone - telefonsku
guesthouse - privatno prenoćište
hostel - omladinso prenoćište
room - sobe
today - danas
tomorrow - sutre
yesterday - jučer
a.m. - ujutro
p.m. - popodne
enter - ulaz
exit - izlaz
open - otvoreno
closed - zatvoreno
interdit - zabranjeno
toilettes - zahodi
1 - 10: jedan, dva, tre, četiri, pet, šest, sedam, osam, devet, deset.
100: sto
m-sun: ponedeljak, utorak, srijeda, četvertak, petak, subota, nedjelja
DUBROVNIK: where to sleep
1. hostel
2. room (private)
3. hotel
hostels:
Dubronik youth service
Setaliste Kralja Zvonimira 10, Dubrovnik
+385 (0) 98652870
20€/nite?
they say to make reservations and then they pick you up - no directions given. in old town.
HI Dubrovnik
(20) 423241
10€
Bana Jelačića 15-17 (or maybe Vinka Sagrestana 3)
YHA
423241
"up vinka sagrestina from
Bana Josipa Jelačića 17
SE of bus stop, nw of old town
esperanza
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